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2006 Glynwood Harvest Award Winners

Glynwood Harvest Farmer Award
Sam and Denise Hendren, Clover Mead Farm
Keeseville (Essex County), New York

Glynwood Harvest Good Neighbor Award
Brad Matthews and Paul Wigsten
The Culinary Institute of America
Hyde Park, New York

Glynwood Harvest Award for Working at the Intersection of Health and Local Food
Kaiser Permanente Comprehensive Food Policy
Lynn Garske, Environmental Stewardship Manager
Jan Sanders, National Nutritional Services Director
Oakland, California

Glynwood Harvest Connecting Communities, Farmers and Food Award
New Entry Sustainable Farming Project
Hugh Joseph, Director

Glynwood Harvest Award for The Wave of the Future
The Strolling of the Heifers
Orly Munzing, Executive Director
Brattleboro, Vermont

 

Glynwood Harvest Farmer Award
Awarded to a farmer who has developed a sustainable farming operation and effective relationships within his or her home community and other communities where the food is consumed.

Sam and Denise Hendren, Clover Mead Farm
Keeseville (Essex County), New York

Sam and Denise Hendren have created a highly successful grass-based dairy and artisan cheese-making business while being leaders in the effort to strengthen the farming community in the Adirondacks.  They provide a superb example of the ways in which innovative farmers contribute to the economic strength of their community, protect its traditional character, and enhance its environmental quality and general quality of life.   

When Sam and Denise Hendren first bought the old “Signor Farm” property in 1997, they had a herd of forty cows and sold the milk for use in Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream.  When Sam injured his back in a fall from the haymow, they were forced to rethink their business. Out of this small tragedy, the idea for a small scale artisan cheese making operation evolved.  They spent the next several years learning to make cheese, building their creamery, acquiring their new herd and gaining organic certification.  They began actively making and selling cheese in 2002.

The Hendrens now milk eight to twelve Jersey cows between May and December.  The shorter milking season takes advantage of the pasture season and the nutritional values associated with milk from cows on fresh pasture.  It also allows the Hendrens to have some down time (relatively speaking) in the winter. The cows produce about 108,000 pounds of milk during this period, which translates into about 10,000 pounds of cheese.  Even so, their cheese is so highly regarded that they cannot meet the demand.

Through smart investing, planning, and quality production, the Hendren’s farm has become profitable at a time when most dairies are struggling to make ends meet. 

According to the Cooperative Extension, “It is a goal of Essex County to have a home town creamery in each Champlain Valley town.  Sam is the role model upon which we are building.”  In the words of a local official:  “There are so few businesses allowed in the Adirondacks that we want to see every farm protected.  Many of our farmers own small acreages, 100 acres of tillable land, with old short tie stalls. If they raised Jerseys, put them on rotational grazing, milked them seasonally and fed them as Sam prescribes, we could have a local cheese economy that supported the small farmers with a reasonable life style.  This is a repeatable model.” 

In addition to being skilled entrepreneurs and cheese makers, the Hendrens have played a major role in raising awareness about the importance of locally grown food and local agricultural issues, as well as new marketing initiatives that have brought more local food to consumers in the region. 

The Hendrens initiated, designed, and implemented the Adirondack Delivery Pool, which markets and delivers a variety of local farm products to restaurants and other food buyers.  Sam has helped to create and nurture the Adirondack Harvest initiative, which encourages production and consumption of local food, and has been instrumental in organizing and running two successful Farmers’ Markets, which are the only “producer only” farmers markets in the area.  He started the markets to prove that local growers of vegetables and local producers of other foods could provide a foundation for a successful market. The markets not only have succeeded, but the Lake Placid market is now the biggest and most successful in the county. Additionally, the “producer only” concept has helped jump start several new growers who would have had a difficult time at markets that allowed the sale of discount commercial produce from other areas.   

A key player in New York’s fledgling artisan cheese making industry, Sam helped found the New York State Artisan Cheese Maker’s Guild [www.nycheese.org].  He has also been a board member for the Essex County Farm Bureau and Cornell Cooperative Extension for Essex County because he believes in “engaging the people you disagree with.” 

Sam and Denise have been instrumental in revitalizing the Ausable Valley Grange, which has once again become a true community center and which initiated the Champlain Valley Foodshed Coalition, the primary vehicle in the area for talking about unconventional and innovative farming practices and a range of other rural issues. [see www.avgrange.org]

Sam encourages other farmers to consider artisan cheese making as a profitable and “sane” alternative” to wholesale, fluid milk sales. Sam has mentored several farmers interested in organic production techniques and works with several interns who plan to have their own farms some day.  The Hendrens hope to create a cheese making cooperative with some of their neighbors.   

The Hendrens also take good care of the land.  In 2006 they received the CHAMP award for helping to protect the water quality in Lake Champlain by reducing farm run-off.   

Keeseville, New York, is directly across from Burlington, Vermont; the Champlain ferry dock is just two miles down the road.  Although Clover Mead Farm is within the Adirondack Park, significant development is allowed in this zone and property values are high. The Hendrens are now working through the process of selling a conservation easement that would restrict development on the 112 acre farm.   

The Hendrens were nominated by the Executive Director of Adirondack Architectural Heritage, who concluded that: “Quite simply, they have made this region a better and more exciting place to live and have set an important example of how small scale niche farming can succeed in the North Country.”

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Glynwood Harvest Good Neighbor Award
Awarded to an individual or organization that has supported regional agriculture in innovative ways, which might include but are not limited to public education, new connections between farmers and urban consumers, or developing financial techniques to support new farmers or farmers who transition to new products.

Brad Matthews and Paul Wigsten
The Culinary Institute of America
Hyde Park, New York

Brad Matthews, Director of Purchasing, and Paul Wigsten, Buyer/Purchasing Agent, have created connections between regional farmers and the world’s premier culinary college that resulted in almost $400,000 in purchases from regional farmers in 2005.  They also have helped teach other institutions how to effectively source local foods and are dedicated to teaching young chefs the pleasures and logistics of using fresh, local ingredients. 

The Culinary Institute of America is the world’s premier culinary college.  More than 1,300 chefs complete their training at the CIA each year and thousands of individuals take continuing education classes.  The professionals and others who spend time in the college’s 41 kitchens and bakeshops form a network of opinion leaders, purchasers and consumers with tremendous potential to impact the way Americans think about food and use their food dollars. 

Over the past several years, the CIA has dramatically expanded its support for regional farmers.  Brad Matthews, Director of Purchasing, began the program with two or three farms more than a decade ago.  Paul Wigsten, a fourth-generaion Hudson Valley farmer himself, began his relationship with the CIA when he first brought a sample box of fresh produce from his Dutchess County farm to Matthews in 1993.  Over the years, Matthews had worked with the local growers to help them understand what it took to sell their crops to organizations and businesses which buy in large quantity, consistency in pack and specification, etc.  In working with Wigsten’s farm, it was clear that Paul understood both what types of produce would appeal to chefs and how to package his crops to make it easier for businesses to purchase directly from his farm.  Matthews was impressed with Paul’s product and product knowledge and offered Paul a full-time position as Produce Buyer.   

In Wigsten’s view, one of the challenges of the CIA’s local buying program was educating farmers as to the quality and quantity of produce that the college’s kitchens require.  The college visits each farm to review and preview the college’s needs and holds special meetings on campus during the winter at which chefs and farmers discuss the items the chefs would like to feature on their menus over the next growing season.  Working with the chefs, many farms have begun to plant certain crops based solely on the CIA’s needs.  In addition to the CIA’s guaranteed market for these products, the farmers have been able to find additional markets for custom-grown crops.   

These CIA initiatives – spearheaded by Mr. Matthews and Mr. Wigsten – put $373,000 directly into the hands of 20 Hudson Valley farmers in 2005.  In summer and fall that represents 40 percent of the food procured by the CIA and off-season,  some of the products purchased included 780,000 eggs, 34,000 pounds of mushrooms, 17,000 pounds of tomatoes and 6,800 pounds of greens. 

The CIA also operates four restaurants, including the Culinary Institute of America’s American Bounty, its flagship restaurant serving regional American cuisine.  The American Bounty’s chef-instructor, Anita Olivarez Eisenhauer, has also refocused the emphasis on looking at local suppliers and the freshest ingredients.  On announcing the restaurant’s new menu in celebration of the 35th Anniversary of Earth Day in 2005, Chef Eisenhauer said that “Sourcing local ingredients whenever possible is an important part of protecting our environment, supporting local farmers, and maintaining a diverse and vibrant regional economy.”  Since working in the American Bounty kitchen is the last course for many of the CIA’s graduating chefs, the importance of this emphasis cannot be overestimated. 

In addition, the CIA – in conjunction with the Council for Independent Colleges and Universites (CICU), and the office of New York Senator Hillary Rodham Clinton - has begun sharing the success of its unique program with other private colleges and universities in New York State through the “Farm-to-Fork” initiative. The goal of this program is to work toward convincing institutions of higher education about the value of supporting local farmers.  The CIA hosted the first Farm-to-Fork conference at its Hyde Park campus in April 2006 and more than 30 colleges and universities joined to learn more about how they can support New York State agriculture through their purchasing decisions.  Awareness of the initiative is growing and the idea is gaining support statewide. Regional Farm-to-Fork meetings are planned for fall 2006. 

Thanks to the efforts of both Paul Wigsten and Brad Matthews, students at the CIA – as well as those at other private, independent colleges and universities across the state – are being exposed to higher quality fresh produce on their menus and the State’s agricultural economy is being bolstered through the institutions’ support. 

The efforts of Chef Brad  Matthews and Paul Wigsten have reached out to and impacted local farmers, budding chefs, restaurant goers, and other college and universities campuses not just in the Hudson Valley and New York, but around the country.

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Glynwood Harvest Award for Working at the Intersection of Health and Local Food
Awarded to an individual or organization that has created ways to use local food to improve the health of children, patients or others.

Kaiser Permanente Comprehensive Food Policy
Lynn Garske, Environmental Stewardship Manager
Jan Sanders, National Nutritional Services Director
Oakland, California

Kaiser Permanente, the largest nonprofit health plan in the United States, has recognized that “Promoting the consumption of locally grown seasonal food fits well with the mission of health care.”[1] It has taken the lead in the health care industry by undertaking a multi-year strategy for increasing access to healthier food for patients, employees and visitors at its facilities and for residents of communities it serves.  

Kaiser Permanente is one of America’s leading integrated health care organizations, serving almost eight and one-half million members in eight states and the District of Columbia.  KP has a strong focus on preventive medicine and environmental stewardship. It is becoming a model for the health care industry by increasing access to fresh, healthy food at its facilities – from snacks to the cafeteria, patient meals and farmers’ markets. It is implementing a multi-year plan to “Promote human health through the promotion of healthy food choices and the creation of a healthy food system for our patients, our staff and our visitors reflecting practices that are ecologically sound, economically viable and socially responsible.”[2]

KP’s program is being undertaken with the leadership of Lynne Garske, Manager of Environmental Stewardship, and the Food Group Project Team.  Their work is a key part of KP’s multi-year strategy to increase access to healthier foods in the communities it serves.  Their approach is comprehensive and ambitious: 

 “We will achieve this purpose through our purchasing and contracting relationships, through linkage to farm stands and farmers markets at KP facilities, and by aligning with nutritional services, employee wellness and patient education programs.  We will provide tools and assistance in the education of staff, visitors and patients regarding healthy sustainable food choices for cafeterias, coffee carts, vending and catering.  We will provide mechanisms for the reduction of waste associated with food preparation and service.  We will support the development of local food systems that promote sustainable agriculture.  We will work with national suppliers to influence practices around food sources and transportation.  We will encourage our vendors to supply us with food that is, among other attributes, free of pesticides and unnecessary antibiotics and offer foods with healthier fats, carbohydrates and proteins.  We will accomplish this without prohibitive cost premiums or decreased food quality.”[3]

One of KP’s early efforts began in 2003, when Dr. Preston Maring, a physician at KP’s Oakland Medical Center, helped launch a farmers’ market to provide access to fresh, healthy food that would be more consistent with the hospital’s mission.  Since then KP has started more than two dozen other markets and farm stands at its facilities in California, Oregon and Hawaii, areas with climates that allow them to be operated year round.  KP has also developed a “Farmers’ Market Resource Guide” to help others create farmers’ markets in their own communities.   

Garske and other members of the Food Group have created guidelines for sourcing sustainable foods, including changes to contract guidelines.  The Food Group has recommended that purchasing preference be made for local, non-pesticide and antibiotic/hormone-free foods.  As a result, the first local tomatoes arrived on patients’ dinner trays at 19 hospitals in Northern California last year.  They were followed by other fruits and vegetables from ten small farms, mainly run by immigrants. 

Through its “Healthy Picks” program, KP has begun to change the snack selection available through the vending machines in its facilities.  More than 600 vending machines have already been revamped so that at least 50 percent of the foods and beverages available, such as fruit, nuts and low-far yogurt, meet new criteria for lower fat, calories, sodium and sugar. 

Recently KP has partnered with a natural foods grocer to create a food market designed to teach people healthier ways of shopping.  The “Food Farm’acy” is owned and operated by Food Mill, an Oakland grocery.  All of the products sold have been approved by Thomas McDonald, KP’s physician-in-chief in Oakland, and director of a weight-management program there, as the “best and healthiest” food in each category.  While the Food Farm’acy is still in its early stages, it is another example of the creativity that KP brings to this issue. 

Changing institutional purchasing on the scale intended by Kaiser Permanente is not without its challenges.  Sourcing the amount and quality of food required will help improve the viability of many small farmers, but adjusting long-standing procurement relationships and distribution systems takes time.   

Because Kaiser Permanente serves so many patients, its leadership is already making a difference in the lives of thousands, if not millions, of people.  In addition, approaches and practices developed by Kaiser Permanente will help pave the way for other health care providers and institutions to source local foods and thereby protect farmland and the environment and improve public health on a broad scale. 

[1] Kaiser Permanente Farmers’ Market Resource Guide, iii. 

[2] Kaiser Permanente Food Group 2005 Action Plan, Purpose, page 1.

[3] Ibid, Scope, page 1.

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Glynwood Harvest Connecting Communities, Farmers and Food Award
Granted to recognize outstanding work that transcends these categories.

New Entry Sustainable Farming Project
Hugh Joseph, Director

The New Entry Sustainable Farming Project has developed effective programs to help immigrants and refugees with agrarian backgrounds start successful agriculture careers.  Immigrant and refugee farmers appear to be the only expanding category of farmers in the county, but they cannot succeed without the type of outreach, training and technical assistance programs provided by New Entry and the other programs that have been modeled after it. 

The New Entry Sustainable Farming Project (New Entry) helps immigrants and refugees with agricultural backgrounds start commercial farm enterprises in central and eastern Massachusetts and encourages similar programs in other states.  Across the nation, many farmers are approaching retirement age and too often there is no one to take over the farm.  In New England, on average, farmers are between 55 and 60 years old.  Immigrant and refugee farmers are proving to be a counter-trend; according to data extrapolated from the 2002 U.S. Census of Agriculture, immigrant and refugee farmers are the only expanding category of farmers in the country. 

However, immigrants face many barriers to entering farming here, including language and cultural differences, access to land, understanding of market opportunities, knowledge of regulations, access to financial resources and drastically different climatic conditions from those in their homelands.  New Entry saw these challenges as an opportunity.  It also recognized that a major trend for new farming in Massachusetts includes small farms near urban areas that produce high value-added products.  This represents an ideal model for immigrant farmers.  Working with a range of partners, New Entry helps immigrants and refugees – primarily Southeast Asians and Africans – to use their farming backgrounds to re-activate idle farmland in Massachusetts, thereby ensuring that the farmland remains in production while helping the producers become more economically self-sufficient.   

New Entry is non-profit organization administered by the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University and by Community Teamwork, Inc.  However, the project works with over fifty public and private partners including Farm Service Agency (USDA), MA Department of Agricultural Resources, Risk Management Agency (USDA), immigrant and refugee service providers, community and immigrant organizations, local businesses, and local farmers.  These agencies and organizations provide technical assistance, volunteers, farmland, tools, financial planning, and other vital resources for New Entry’s work.

New Entry employs a comprehensive strategy to address the multiple needs of beginning immigrant farmers – finding farmland, providing training and technical assistance, and promoting market-driven production strategies for small-scale producers.  After three years, farmers with sufficient experience move to larger acreage and more independent operations as part of the program’s new Transitioning Farmer Program.  NESFP partners provide technical assistance, education, small loans, materials, equipment, and marketing links.  Growers produce mainly vegetables and herbs which they sell at farmers’ markets, local ethnic groceries and through other outlets to residents in their neighborhoods, whose nutritional needs are often underserved.  In addition, NESFP has help farmers develop a cooperative marketing initiative call World Peas that includes a CSA and sells to other local retail and wholesale venues. 

Founded in 1998, New Entry now has four farm training sites in Massachusetts encompassing over forty acres, and has on-going relationships with more than forty immigrant farmers.  New Entry works with growers to run a new marketing cooperative, the World Peas Coop, which sells on behalf of more than a dozen producers to a variety of retail and wholesale outlets. 

Through its programs and with its partners, New Entry:

  • Promotes sustainable farming practices and economically viable whole farm planning, beginning with an 18-workshop training program. 
  • Develops culturally sensitive technical assistance techniques and training materials, with a focus on hands-on demonstrations and production of written materials that are suitable to the literacy levels of immigrants and refugees;
  • Trains farmers in organic production methods;
  • Assists new producers with accessing farmland by inventorying farms and identifying farmable open space for lease or purchase.

New Entry has helped other similar projects get underway in other states, and has organized an immigrant farming programs network in the Northeast.  The Director worked closely with Heifer Project to create the National Immigrant Farming Initiative.  Through its creative work, New Entry is developing ways to overcome the challenges immigrants face in becoming successful farmers here.  This includes finding good markets for their products and designing a collective distribution system to get products to new markets while maintaining their freshness and high quality.

Overall, New Entry’s work exemplifies an effective, whole-community effort.  It has been able to involve and organize diverse groups and people to help farmers, immigrant communities, and the land. 

In nominating New Entry, August Schumacher Jr., former Massachusetts Commissioner of Food and Agriculture and senior official at the USDA, wrote that New Entry:  “…represents an excellent model for replication in other states, and initiatives in Maine, New York, Massachusetts, Rhode Island and elsewhere have already been modeled on their work.  It is innovative; it has strong local, regional and national support; and it is stimulating a rapid expansion of new immigrant farming initiatives across the region and the country.”

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Glynwood Harvest Award for The Wave of the Future
Awarded to a young person, or organization involving young people, helping to create the next generation of consumers who will understand the importance of nutritious food and will help forge stronger connections between city consumers and rural farmers.

The Strolling of the Heifers
Orly Munzing, Executive Director
Brattleboro, Vermont

Pamplona may have the Running of the Bulls, but thanks to Orly Munzing, Brattleboro, Vermont has the Strolling of the Heifers.  Accompanied by 4-H Club members and other young people, 100 flower-bedecked heifers stroll down Main Street to kick off an annual four-day celebration designed to promote awareness of the importance of agriculture in our daily lives and help strengthen agriculture in southeastern Vermont.  SOTH uses funds generated through the event to support educational projects that link farmers and students in hands-on learning.

Making farming enticing to youth is critical to ensuring farming continues into the future.  Key to attracting youth is making farming exciting.  The Strolling of the Heifers (SOTH), created and run by Orly Munzing, with assistance from her Board of Directors and committee of volunteers, does just that.  SOTH organizes a yearly festival in Brattleboro, Vermont that features a parade of cows down Main Street.  The heifers, more than 100 of them in 2006, with names like Millie, Petunia and Delilah, sport flower garlands and are led by 4Hers and students.  The event embodies a quirky, entertaining spirit that makes sustainable agriculture engaging for the next generation.  At the same time, the parade helps fulfill SOTH’s  mission and helps fund educational programs throughout the year. [strollingoftheheifers.com]

Orly, a southern Vermont resident who greatly values agriculture, created the idea of having cows parade on Main Street after seeing the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain.  She subsequently formed a committee of local residents, raised $70,000 and, a year later, in  2002, the first heifers were strolling down Main Street. 

The parade is part of a four-day festival that features local food, educational events, music, and art and even milking and moo-ing contests.  In addition, every year the festival has a public lecture and panel discussion on pressing agricultural issues.  The festival embodies the creative culture of Vermont while honoring farmers and engaging residents and tourists alike.  The parade and festival grow in popularity each year and recently attracted 50,000 attendees. The Vermont Chamber of Commerce has recognized the festival as one of the state’s Top Ten Summer Events for the past four years, and the festival has received national and  international attention.

The purpose of the festival is to build interest and support for sustainable agriculture and to raise money to fund agricultural programs for youth.  Over the last five years, SOTH has raised over $100,000 to support hands-on, agriculture education programs for school age youth. This year, SOTH awarded funding to educational projects ranging from soil conservation programs to studies about maple syrup production and marketing.  All of the projects the organization funds link farmers and students in hands-on learning experiences.

In addition to funding independent projects, SOTH has begun to coordinate its own education efforts.  In 2006, SOTH brought several heifers to area elementary schools to teach children about the importance of the dairy industry, where their food comes from, and nutrition.  As a result, over 1,700 children met the cows and learned about the links between agriculture, the landscape, and their health. 

SOTH has also initiated a project to link Vermont high school students with area farmers for summer apprenticeships.  The project will be based around a summer apprentice program that will match farmers with 15 to 21 year old students who are interested in learning the management skills necessary to run an agricultural operation.  Students will be awarded school credit for their work experience and farmers get help during the busiest time of year. The program’s goal is to encourage students to seek employment opportunities in agriculture once they complete high school. 

SOTH also provides scholarships for farmers to allow them to take advantage of continuing education opportunities. 

SOTH is about to launch a Buy Local Challenge Campaign to educate consumers and food businesses about the benefits of increasing the percentage of locally produced foods that they buy. 

SOTH celebrates Vermont’s resources and finds exciting ways to involve youth.  In addition, they also support on-going projects to educate youth about the importance of agriculture and provide opportunities for youth to engage in hands-on projects and gain real-world experience. 

In support of this nomination, State Senator Jeanette White wrote:  “When first conceived, it seemed a bit silly.  Whoever would think that a bunch of heifers would have any meaning, would attract people and could be done in a humane way?  But it happened….this has truly become a community event and it has managed to keep its focus rather than just become a ‘day of parades and fun’.”

Congressman Bernard Sanders wrote:  “Each year this 4-day event has grown in stature and effectiveness through tremendous partnerships and collaborations with businesses and organizations throughout the southern Vermont area.  Farm families have gained unique opportunities to promote their diversified farm enterprises, citizens have been engaged in meaningful conversations about everything from global trade and federal farm polity to sustainable methods and local food systems, and the area has reaped the rewards of increased exposure for the tourism industry…..Orly Munzing is certainly a shining light that has beamed down on Brattleboro.  Strolling of the Heifers has proven to be the beacon that calls friends and farmers, neighbors and tourists to join in the celebration of the best that Vermont has to offer.”

SOTH’s creative approach is a great example of an innovative project that can help forge a positive and exciting environment for the future of farming.

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